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Department of Handlooms

கைத்தறி துறை

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DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILES

  • Spinning
  • Ginning Sector
  • Cotton Farming
  • Knitting
  • Processing Sector
  • Garment & Apparel
  • Technical Textiles

Cotton spinning is the process of twisting strands of cotton fibres to form a yarn, which is used to make apparel and other end-user products. This spinning process is a crucial part of the Textile Industry. The most common cotton spinning techniques used in the industry are Ring spinning, Rotor spinning, Compact spinning, and Air-jet spinning.

Ring Frame

At the Global level, the total installed Ring spindles are 223 million, and the installed Open- end Rotors were 7.4 million in 2019.

The Indian spinning industry is one of the biggest industries globally, with around 52.48 million spindles. The installed capacity of rotors in the country is around 8 lakh rotors. India has the second-highest spindle capacity after China and contributes about 25 % share in the global trade of cotton yarn

Cotton continues to be the leading fibre addict in the Textile industry. Cotton Textiles contribute to over 60% of Indian Textile exports.

Tamilnadu enjoys a premier position in the country, both in the number of spindles and the production of yarn. Out of 3376 spinning mills in India, 1861 are located in Tamilnadu, including six Cooperative Spinning Mills. The State possesses a 46% spinning capacity of the entire country.

In India, there are about 52.48 million spindles, of which 22.79 million spindles are in Tamilnadu, including 1.18 lakh spindles in six Cooperative Spinning Mills and providing employment to 2.80 lakh workers. However, the yarn productivity in the State is 18% to 20% lesser than in the rest of India. Productivity loss is mainly due to old machinery

Still, many Spinning Mills in the State are functioning with obsolete machinery and are not equipped with State-of-the-art technology.

Approximately 68% of India’s 10+ years old machinery is in Tamilnadu. Hence, the sector requires support for the modernisation and installation of State-of-art machinery.

It is necessary to modernise and upgrade the technology and replace the old/outdated technology machines to retain the premier position of Tamilnadu in the spinning segment and supply high-quality yarn to downstream sector for export. Accordingly, the Government of Tamilnadu is providing interest subvention to spinning mills to modernise the vintage machinery.

Rotor Spinning

Due to the modernisation of the vintage machinery, productivity and the quality of the yarn will be improved. The spinning mills across Tamilnadu could compete in the market considerably. The yarn productivity and production in Tamilnadu will increase, thereby, Sales and GST revenue will also increase

Compact Spinning

Airjet Spinning

Ginning is the foremost process in the Textile value chain which plays a vital role in separating fibres from cotton seed and converts field crops into a saleable commodity, i.e. lint. Ginning acts as a bridge between the cotton farmer and the Textile industry.

Ginning Mill

Cotton fibre quality is determined by genetic position, growing conditions, picking practices, storage practices, transportation practices, gintype and machine conditions, gin setting/adjustment, lint cleaning, and baling procedures. Ginning plays a vital function in maintaining cotton quality out of all of these.

It is estimated that around 4000 ginning mills are functioning in India, of which 280 ginning factories are working in Tamilnadu. Since cotton cultivation is lesser in Tamilnadu when compared to the rest of India, the ginning capacity of Tamilnadu is also limited.

Ginning mills in Tamilnadu use both conventional and modern machinery. The productivity of Modern machinery is 50% higher than that of traditional machines. Production of up to 90 kgs of lint per hour can be achieved in modern machinery. In comparison, the output in conventional machinery is only 50 to 60 kgs of lint/ hour.

Issues

The Textile Committee, constituted by the Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, provides star ratings to ginneries based on the quality of infrastructure set up in the factory, management practices, and clean cotton quality. The rating assigned to a unit acts as a performance indicator that intends to promote better ginning practices and the production of clean cotton.

To improve the productivity and quality of cotton, modernising ginning mills is necessary. Since most Ginning mills come under micro, small, and medium industries categories, the Government of Tamilnadu supports the ginning mills to modernise their machinery under MSME schemes. There is a broader scope for the ginning industry in Tamilnadu if cotton cultivation is increased under Cotton Mission.

Ginning Machine

Cotton has been one of the important commercial crops of Tamilnadu since ancient times. Coimbatore, Perambalur, Virudhunagar, and Dharmapuri are significant regions of cotton cultivation. Though the spinning mills mainly use cotton in Tamilnadu, Cotton cultivation is inadequate to meet the demand of the domestic market. Out of 120 lakh bales of the requirement of cotton per annum for spinning mills in Tamilnadu, inland production is around 5 lakh bales only.

Year.

Production (Lakh Bales)

Cultivation Area(Lakh Hectares)
2019-20 6.00 1.70
2020-21 2.43 1.12
2021-22 2.96 1.25

Source: Cotton Corporation of India

Issues

There is a wide gap between the demand and supply of cotton in Tamilnadu. Cotton cultivation area and yield per hectare are lesser than the rest of India.

To bridge the cotton supply-demand mismatch in the State, the mills are sourcing 95% of the cotton from other States by spending Rs. 3/- to Rs.6/- per kg for transport.

Cotton Mission

To increase the cotton cultivation in Tamilnadu, the Department of Textiles has formed a committee to work out a ‘Cotton Mission’ to work in cooperation with the Agriculture Department.

It is essential to increase the cotton production and yield in the State with a mission mode approach to give more importance to Extra Long Staple (ELS) cotton, organic cotton and sustainable cotton. Rs.15.32 Crore has been allocated towards this program during the financial year 2022-23 under Agriculture Department Budget.

Modernisation of Cotton cultivation and Mechanisation of Cotton harvesting

Cotton production can be increased by increasing the yield of existing cotton-growing areas by improving the cotton seed technology, agronomy research, mechanisation of cotton harvesting and input support to the farmers.

Department of Textiles will focus on creating awareness about High yield seed varieties, modernisation of cotton cultivation, exploring the possibilities of use of High-density planting, mechanisation of Cotton harvesting, in cooperation with southern India Mills’ Association Cotton Development and Research Association (SIMA-CDRA), Coimbatore, Tamilnadu Agricultural University, Coimbatore and the Agriculture Department.

Mechanised Harvesting

Weaving and knitting are essential processes in the Textile industry, converting yarn into fabric. There are 24.86 Lakh power looms in India, out of which 5.63 lakh power looms are working in Tamilnadu, which caters to the needs of domestic and export of Readymade Garments units all over the country.

Knitwear from Tamilnadu and India

Although formal wear is generally made of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics have gained considerable market in sportswear, protective Textiles, leisurewear, kids wear, and western dresses. The knitted fabrics have better drapeability and offer better comfort to the wearer.

The knitwear industry is an essential sector in Tamilnadu in providing employment and generating foreign exchange. Tiruppur is one of 184 the leading clusters in the Knitting industry in Tamilnadu and India. The knitwear sector is an ever-employment generator industry. Tamilnadu knitwear industry has been able to book orders from all the sophisticated world markets, including European Union, U.S.A., Canada, and Japan.

Circular Knitting machine

There are about 13,000 knitting and garment- producing units in the State. These units employ around 6 lakh persons from neighbouring districts and states, including both local and migrated labour force.

Source: Tiruppur Exporters Association

Around 40% of India’s clothing is in the form of knitwear, and Tamilnadu plays a pivotal role in producing and exporting knitted goods. Tamilnadu alone contributes 53% of the all India share of knitwear exports.

The Knitwear production share of Tiruppur, including both exports and domestic business, is 60% of the all India share. In future, this will increase significantly.

Issues

The knitting industry in Tamilnadu employs around 6 Lakh people, out of which a considerable workforce are migrant workers. The acute shortage of skilled labour is the primary threat to the growth of the Knitwear industry

The Tamilnadu Government provides upskilling and Short Term Training Programs to semi- skilled and unskilled labours, respectively, through the Tamilnadu Skill Development Corporation. Textile Industries will be encouraged to become training partners in the training programs to impart training to the unskilled and semi-skilled labours by creating necessary awareness.

The processing sector, which involves the application of colours and finishing on the textile product, determines the value and quality of the core product and has tremendous scope for innovations and control over the final output. The process can be broadly classified as follows:-

The type of material on which the processing is applied can be classified as follows.

Sl.No

Material

Method
1 Fibre Fibres can be dyed in specially designed dyeing machines. Also, during the Manufacturing of Synthetic fibres, colouring agents are injected into the material.
2 Yarn Yarn may be dyed to allow weavers or knitters to build coloured patterns into the fabric itself, as in the case of woven stripes or checks, tie & dye patterns, or knitted stripes or checks.
3 Fabrics Fabric can be dyed with a single colour or printed with a colourful pattern using several different printing techniques
4 Garment Fully assembled garments can also be dyed and Printed.

The processing of yarn and fabric at the pre-loom and post-loom stages contributes significantly to the product's basic customisation and aesthetic value addition. Processing involves bleaching, dyeing, printing, and finishing. The State provides an eco-system of dyeing units that complies with the Pollution Control Board's environmental guidelines for Zero Liquid Discharge of Effluents by utilising current technology. Tamilnadu has 2614 hand processing units (25 percent of India's total units) and 985 power processing units

Yarn dyeing and bleaching are the mainstays of the state processing industry. The installed capacity in Fabric Dyeing and wider width printing, such as the Rotary Printing System, is insufficient in Tamilnadu to meet the State's needs. As a result, grey fabrics made in and around the Erode cluster are sent to other printing clusters, such as Jaipur in Rajasthan, Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh, and Meerut in Uttar Pradesh, Ahmedabad, and Surat in Gujarat and then sold in our State. Encouragement of capacity building in Textile Processing infrastructure shall be a significant focus.

Major Textile processing clusters include Tiruppur, Erode, Salem, and Karur. The Government will focus on setting up CETPs with ZLD facility in Textile Clusters both in the form of setting up Green Field Textile Processing Parks with CETP and setting up CETPs alone by interlinking existing dyeing units to arrest pollution and to ensure environmental protection.

Accordingly, 18 Common Effluent Treatment Plants have been set up in Tiruppur with both Union and State Government aid of Rs.300.00 crore, ensuring sustained employment opportunities for over 6 lakh people and making a significant contribution to the knitwear and garment industry in Tiruppur.

Various segments in Textile processing

Also, under the Integrated Processing Development Scheme, it has been proposed to set up 11 Common Effluent treatment plants and Reject management systems in Erode, Namakkal, Virudhunagar, and Kanchipuram districts.

Issues

The processing sector needs more focus on the Tamilnadu Textile value chain. The State government will continue to support the development of the processing sector by dovetailing the Union Government schemes and State Government support.

To increase the potential of our State in fabric printing, which is currently being outsourced from other states, capacity building in this segment will be focused on. Accordingly, financial assistance in the form of capital subsidy is provided by the State Government

To protect the environment and to make the processing industry more sustainable, effluent treatment is mandatory as per the norms laid down by the State. Hence setting up Effluent Treatment Plants for the processing industry is essential. To support the processing industry, the State Government provides financial assistance to set up Effluent Treatment Plants/ Hazardous waste treatment storage and disposable facility with Zero Liquid Discharge.

Tamilnadu is effectively implementing ZLD to protect the environment. Since Tamilnadu has been bestowed with the longest shoreline in India, there are possibilities of setting up new processing industries with Marine discharge facilities without affecting the environment.

Approximately 60,000 MT of salt waste after effluent treatment has been stored and waiting for disposal in CETPs of Tamilnadu. Also, salt waste is generated every day. These salts will affect the environment.

The Readymade garment is defined as a finished textile product of the clothing industry. The Garments are made from different yarns and fabrics

Readymade Garments occupy a predominant position in world trade as it is one of the fastest-growing segments in the Textile sector. The regional markets for the product include North America, Europe, the Asia Pacific, Latin America, the Middle East, and Africa. The growing fashion drives the global readymade garments industry. Global apparel is expected to reach 1 trillion USD by 2025, growing at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 3% from 2019.

The Indian Domestic Textile and Apparel market is estimated to be 99 billion USD in 2021-22, which has recovered 30% from 2020-21. The market is expected to grow at a 10% Compound Annual Growth Rate from 2019-20 to reach 190 billion USD by 2025-2026.

India’s Textile and Apparel Exports (Billion USD)

Sl.No

Category

2010-11

2019-20

2020-21

2021-22(Estimated)
1 Fibre 4 2 2.7 3.8
2 Yarn 4 4 4.4 7.4
3 Fabric 4 5 4.1 5.2
4 Apparel 12 16 12.3 14.3
5 Home Textiles 4 5 5.7 6.9
6 Others 1 2 1.7 2.1
Total 29 34 30.9 39.7

Source: Wazir Advisors annual report

Tamilnadu Scenario

In Tamilnadu, the garment sector is located substantially around Chennai, specialising in cotton and artificial fibre readymade garments. Knitting units are located in the Tiruppur area. There are about 13,000 knitting and garment- producing units in the State. These units employ around 6 lakh persons. The Knitting units in Tiruppur have contributed to the production of knitted garments worth around Rs.56,000 crore during 2020-21.

The garment manufacturing industry is highly labour-intensive. It is fragmented (primarily small and mid-sized factories) driven by the individual entrepreneurial spirit, leading to limited technological advancement and investment.

Issues

Textile Industry in Tamilnadu faces critical issues regarding the availability of skilled labour.

The Government of Tamilnadu provides upskilling and Short Term Training Programmes to semi-skilled and unskilled labours respectively, through the Tamilnadu Skill Development Corporation. Textile Industries will be encouraged to become training partners in the training programmes to impart training to the unskilled and semi- skilled labours by creating necessary awareness.

Defence, Automobile, and Medical Textiles

Textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their performance and functional properties rather than aesthetic or decorative characteristics are categorised as Technical Textiles.

Technical Textiles include Textiles for Automotive applications, Medical Textiles (e.g., Implants), Geo Textiles (reinforcement of embankments), AgroTextiles (Textiles for crop protection), and Protective clothing (e.g., heat and radiation protection for firefighter clothing, molten metal protection for welders, stab guard and bulletproof vests, and spacesuits)

Technical Textiles have been used globally for the last several decades. These materials have provided innovative engineering solutions for several civil and geotechnical engineering applications for infrastructure and water resources projects.

Even while Technical Textiles have been extensively used in developed and many developing countries, India has yet to capitalise on the technical, economic, and environmental benefits on a large scale

The details of the three categories of raw materials used to manufacture Technical Textiles are as follows.

Technical Textile is a fast-growing sub-segment that finds its usage in various sector. The end-use application of Technical Textiles is widespread and seen in 12 major industries.

12 Major sector of Technical Textiles

Scope of significant segments in the Technical Textile Industry

i) PROTECH (Protective Textiles)

Industrial Gloves: Industrial hand gloves serve as an item of protective apparel for workers in factories.

High Altitude Clothing: High altitude clothing protects against extreme weather conditions like extremely low temperature, high-velocity winds, snowfall, etc., especially in critical combat areas like Siachen.

Chemical Protective Clothing (CPC): Chemical Protective Clothing (CPC) is used for protection from chemical and physical hazards.

High Visibility Clothes: High visibility clothes (also known as Reflective-wear) have become essential for protecting people working in poorly lit environments like mines, highways, airport runways, cyclists, etc.

Hazmat suits: Hazardous material (Hazmat) suits were designed to protect users handling hazardous waste material such as chemicals, radioactive material, etc.

1) Industrial gloves

2) High altitude clothing

3) Hazmat suit

4) Fire retardant clothing

5) Chemical Protective Clothing

6) Bullet proof vest

7) High visibility clothing.

Fire/Flame Retardant Apparel:The fire/flame retardant apparels have an industrial need as they offer protection from fire and other heat-intensive tasks.

Bullet Proof Jacket: Ballistic protection involves protecting the wearer's body and eyes against projectiles and fragments of various shapes, sizes, and impact velocity.

ii) MOBILTECH (Automobile Textiles)

Nylon Tyre Cord: Nylon tyre cord fabric provides strength to a tyre. The tyre industry consumes nearly 98% of the total nylon tyre cord consumption.

Seat Belt: Seat belts function as safety harnesses that secure the vehicles' passengers against harmful movements during a collision or similar incidents. Seat belts are woven narrow fabric made from nylon filament yarns or high tensile polyester filament yarn.

Car Upholstery/ Car Seat Cover: Woven seat cover is one of the significant contributors of Technical textiles in an automobile. With gradual improvement in vehicle models and increased emphasis on luxury and comfort, the seat cover market has witnessed an uptrend.

Air Bag: Airbags are inflatable protective equipment that reduces injuries during an accident. The airbags are manufactured using yarn/fabrics, primarily nylon 66 and silicone coated.

1. Nylon tyre cord

2. Seat belt

3. Car upholstery/seat cover

4. Airbag.

iii) MEDITECH (Medical Textiles

Baby Diapers:Baby diapers are used to absorb and retain the body fluids of infants in the period between birth and 24 months. Diapers are essentially made by a sandwich of an absorbent pad between fabric sheets.

Surgical Disposables: The surgical disposables primarily consist of masks, capes, drapes, gowns, covers, and shoe covers made of polypropylene spun-bond fabric (non-woven) with or without polyethylene film. Surgical disposables are used in hospitals and pharmaceutical companies to maintain hygienic and sterile operations.

Surgical Dressing Materials: Surgical dressing material is applied to the wound to expedite the healing process and prevent further harm due to wound exposure. The dressing material can be primarily divided into wound care layers and bandages

Implantable Materials: These are the textile structures that can be used inside the human body for various purposes, such as closure, repair, and replacement. Available products are sutures, vascular grafts, artificial ligaments, artificial joints, and scaffolds for tissue growth, each providing suitable properties for the end-user.

Extra-Corporeal Devices:These are the artificial organs used to replace the diseased ones. There have been artificial kidneys, livers, and lungs. The making of these devices requires precise design and manufacture.

1. Baby Diapers

2. Surgical Disposables

3. Surgical Dressing Materials

4. Implantable Materials

5. Extra-Corporeal Devices.

iv) GEOTECH (Geo Textiles)

Construction of roads: An effective geotextile provides separation to preserve the aggregate base and maintain the designed structure and load-bearing capacity of the road.

Railway: The subgrade consists of coarse soils, e.g. sands and gravels. The geotextile acts as a separator between the subgrade and the ballast.

River Canal and Coastal Work: Erosion protection structures or armour systems dissipate the hydraulic forces that cause erosion, and they preserve the subgrade soil or fill the earth behind it.

Drainage:Geotextiles are widely used for drainage in earth and construction works. The geotextiles can drain fluids on their own, meaning that it is not part of a drainage system but is the drainage system itself.

1. Construction of roads

2. Railway

3. River Canal and Coastal Work

4. Drainage.

v) AGROTECH (Agro Textiles)

Agrotech, more commonly known as Agro- Textiles, are wovens, non-wovens, knitted fabrics used in agriculture, horticulture, landscape gardening, and even animal husbandry. There is a tremendous potential for suitable agro-textile products like shade nets, ground cover, crop cover, etc., in cultivating agricultural, horticultural, and floricultural produce.

1. Shade nets

2. Ground cover

3. Crop cover

vi) INDUTECH (Industrial Textiles)

Textiles that are specifically designed and engineered to be capable of use in products, processes, or services of mostly non-textile industries are termed industrial textiles.

vii) BUILDTECH (Construction Textiles)

Textiles used in buildings and Construction are known as Buildtech or Buildtex. Textile materials are used indoors and outdoors for surface and hidden applications. Now textiles are being used for acoustic & thermal insulation and protection against sun, wind, fire, and water.

viii) CLOTHTECH (Clothing Textiles)

Clothtech (clothing Textiles) is a segment of Technical Textiles that includes all textile components used primarily in clothing and footwear. Clothtech encompasses the functional parts that may not be visible, such as zippers, labels, sewing threads, elastics, insulating fibre fills, waddings, shoelaces, drawcords, velcro, interlining cloths, etc.

ix) HOME TECH (Home Textiles)

Home Textiles or Household Textiles is a segment of Technical Textiles comprised of the textile components used in the domestic environment such as upholstery, interior decoration and furniture, carpeting, protection against the sun, cushion materials, fireproofing, floor and wall coverings, textile reinforced structures/fittings, filter products for vacuum cleaners, etc.,

x) PACKTECH (Packaging Textiles)

Packtech or Textiles for packaging is one of the essential areas in Technical textile applications. Packtech includes heavyweight woven fabrics used for bags, sacks, Flexible Intermediate Bulk Containers (FIBC) and wrappings for textile bales and carpets. It also has lightweight non-wovens used as durable papers, tea bags, and other food and industrial product wrappings.

xi) SPORTS TECH (Sports Textiles)

Sports Textiles is one of the various branches of Technical Textiles. In different sports, the players wear sportswear such as jerseys or T-shirts, trousers, shirts, caps, footwear, etc. Some sports accessories are known as Sports Textiles.

Global scenario of Technical Textiles

Technical Textiles contribute a significant portion to the growth of world textiles. It represents about 31% of the total Textile Production. Countries are aligning their industries to accommodate Technical Textiles. This shift is evident in India's Textile sector, moving from Traditional Textiles to Technical Textiles.

The Global market for sector such as Protech (Defence), Mobiltech, Meditech, Indutech, and Sportstech is pegged at 165 billion USD in 2018. Mobiltech, Indutech, and Sportstech are the most significant global industry segments, together accounting for 52% of the market. Europe and China account for more than 50% of global technical textile production.

Segment-wise Global market size of Technical Textiles as of 2018.

Indian scenario for Technical Textiles

Since ancient times, India's strengths have been in traditional textiles and natural fibres globally. Now India is also emerging as a critical player in the Technical Textiles industry. Technical Textiles account for approximately 13% of India's total Textile and Apparel market and contribute to India’s GDP by 2.7%. India's leap towards modernisation and its manufacturing competitiveness are some of the key contributors to the growth of this segment.

Segment-wise Indian market size for Technical Textiles as of 2018 is as below.

India has the 2nd largest population in the world. However, the per capita consumption of Technical Textiles is a mere 1/5th of that of some developed countries. Hence, there is a good potential in the domestic market itself for Technical Textile products. The Technical Textiles Industry in India is expected to grow at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 12%.

India’s exports of Technical Textiles in 2020-21 were approximately 2,370 million USD, which has grown at a Compound Annual Growth Rate of 9% since 2015-16. India’s imports of Technical Textiles have grown at a CAGR of 10% between 2015- 16 to 2018-19. The details of export and import of Technical Textiles in India since 2015-16 are as follows.

Scope for Technical Textiles in Tamilnadu

Tamil Nadu is a major textile hub of the country. Over the years, it has also made its mark in the Technical Textile industry with many key players of Clothtech and Hometech located within the State. The State has a cluster of mosquito net manufacturers located at Karur.

With India's largest Automobile and auto- component cluster, Tamil Nadu's automobile ecosystem is well poised to attract high value, high technology Mobiltech investment. Similarly, with 02% of India’s textile mills in Tamil Nadu and complementary clusters of knitting, weaving, and medical devices manufacturing in Coimbatore, and Tiruppur, the region provide immense opportunities for Meditech investments. In short, Tamil Nadu has the requisite end-user industries to spur growth in Technical Textiles.

In 2017, the Government of Tamilnadu appointed Sardar Vallabhai Patel International School of Textiles and Management (SVPISTM), Coimbatore, to execute the Technical Textiles training. The Tamilnadu Government has sanctioned an amount of Rs.50 lakh for Training programmes.

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